To achieve this look, I needed some custom framing and a header above the tub on the long wall. This was planned from the beginning, and I made sure that the plumber and electrician would not need to run power or plumbing lines through these wall cavities.
Tip: Mark the wall studs with spray paint or mark all sides with a permanent marker, informing all tradespeople that the space is reserved for the tiler.
By purchasing a good sample of tiles you can lay them out, check your tiles for warping and soak-test them for quality control.
If your current wall studs are hindering the plumbing fixtures from being placed where you want them, now is a good time to address this.
Make sure your shower or bath's waterproofing system is designed with the windows in mind. This way you can prevent water from getting behind the tile and into the window framing. Having tilted sills and room for expansion will ensure the tile job holds up well for years to come.
Have your plumber position the drain pipe close to, but not exactly in, the finished position until after you and your tile installer determine the best tile layout for the shower. A shower will need flood testing, so this work will be checked later.
I would not build a pebble shower floor with a pitch less than 2 percent, or 1/4 inch per foot.
Make sure you stay off these floors until they're fully cured, and wait as long as possible before sealing the job. Don't let your crew install the tile in two days, grout the third and then seal the following day. Each stage needs time to dry before proceeding.
Wrapping means that the tile used to finish the wall and return the short corner is the same tile. This allows the grain of the tile to continue around the corner and makes for a more polished look.
You can always make your shower niches smaller, but making them bigger is a much more detailed and labor-intensive process.